Is There a Magic Number?
The honest answer: no. There's no single credit score that "lets you" buy a house. The score you need depends entirely on the type of loan you're getting, and even within a loan type, your score affects not just whether you qualify but how much you pay every month for the next 30 years.
Here's the framework that actually matters: there's the minimum score to qualify, and there's the score to get the best rate. They can be 80+ points apart, and the gap between them is worth tens of thousands of dollars over the life of your loan. Let's break both down.
Minimum Credit Scores by Loan Type (2026)
| Loan type | Typical minimum score | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| FHA (3.5% down) | 580 | 500–579 possible with 10% down |
| VA loan | No official minimum (lenders often want 580–620) | For eligible veterans/service members |
| USDA loan | 640 (lender guideline) | Rural areas, 0% down |
| Conventional | 620 | Backed by Fannie Mae / Freddie Mac |
| Jumbo loan | 700–740+ | For loans above conforming limits |
FHA Loans: The Most Forgiving
FHA loans are the go-to for buyers with lower credit. With a 580 score, you can put down as little as 3.5%. With a score between 500 and 579, you may still qualify but you'll need 10% down. FHA is popular with first-time buyers precisely because the credit bar is low — the trade-off is mortgage insurance you'll pay for the life of the loan in most cases.
VA Loans: No Official Minimum
The VA itself sets no minimum credit score, but the lenders who actually issue VA loans usually want to see 580 to 620. For eligible veterans and active-duty service members, VA loans are extraordinary — 0% down, no PMI, and competitive rates.
USDA Loans: Rural and Generous
USDA loans offer 0% down for homes in eligible rural and suburban areas. Most lenders look for a 640 score for streamlined processing, though lower scores can work with manual underwriting.
Conventional Loans: 620 Floor, but Score Drives Everything
Conventional loans generally require a 620 minimum, but this is where your score matters most for pricing. Conventional loan rates and PMI costs are tiered by credit score — a 760 borrower pays dramatically less than a 660 borrower for the exact same loan.
The Score That Gets You the Best Rate
Qualifying and getting a great deal are two different things. On conventional loans, lenders use credit-score-based pricing, and the best pricing generally kicks in around 740 to 760+. Here's roughly how a 30-year fixed rate might tier by score in 2026 (illustrative — your actual rate depends on the market and your full profile):
| Credit score | Relative rate tier | Impact |
|---|---|---|
| 760+ | Best available | Lowest rate, lowest PMI |
| 740–759 | Excellent | Near-best pricing |
| 700–739 | Good | Slightly higher rate |
| 660–699 | Fair | Noticeably higher rate and PMI |
| 620–659 | Minimum-qualifying | Highest rate, costliest PMI |
What the Gap Costs You
Consider a $350,000 loan over 30 years. A difference of even 0.5% in your interest rate — easily caused by a credit-score tier — adds roughly $35,000+ in interest over the life of the loan, plus higher monthly PMI until you reach 20% equity. That's why pushing your score from 690 to 740 before you apply can be one of the highest-return financial moves you'll ever make. Use a mortgage calculator to see the monthly difference.
How to Raise Your Score Before You Apply
You don't need years. With focused effort, many buyers can gain 20–50 points in a few months.
1. Pay Down Credit Card Balances
Credit utilization — how much of your available credit you're using — is one of the biggest factors. Aim to get each card and your overall utilization below 30%, and ideally under 10%. Paying a card from 80% down to 10% utilization can jump your score significantly within one or two billing cycles.
2. Never Miss a Payment
Payment history is the single largest factor in your score. Set autopay on at least the minimums for everything. One 30-day late payment can drop a good score by 60–100 points.
3. Don't Open or Close Accounts
In the months before applying, don't open new credit cards or finance a car — new hard inquiries and new accounts ding your score and alarm underwriters. And don't close old cards; doing so reduces your available credit and shortens your credit history.
4. Dispute Errors
Pull your reports from all three bureaus (free at AnnualCreditReport.com) and dispute any errors — wrong balances, accounts that aren't yours, paid debts still showing as owed. Errors are common, and fixing one can bump your score quickly.
5. Ask for a Goodwill Adjustment
If you have a single late payment on an otherwise clean account, a polite "goodwill letter" to the creditor sometimes gets it removed.
It's Not Just the Score — DTI Matters Too
Lenders look at more than your score. Your debt-to-income ratio (DTI) — how much of your monthly income goes to debt payments — is just as important. Most loans want your total DTI under 43%, with the best terms under 36%. A great score with a high DTI can still get you denied. Run yours with a DTI calculator before you apply.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I buy a house with a 600 credit score?
Yes — an FHA loan allows 580, and a 600 score qualifies. You'll pay a higher rate and mortgage insurance, but you can absolutely buy. Raising your score even into the 620s opens up conventional options.
What credit score do I need for the best mortgage rate?
Generally 740–760 or higher gets you into the top pricing tier on conventional loans. Above that, improvements make little difference.
Does checking my own credit hurt my score?
No. Checking your own credit is a "soft inquiry" and never affects your score. Only hard inquiries from credit applications can ding it slightly.
How long before buying should I start fixing my credit?
Ideally 3 to 6 months. That's enough time to pay down balances, let utilization changes register, and dispute any errors — without rushing. See our guide to how much house you can afford while you're at it.
The Bottom Line
There's no magic number, but here's the practical map: 580 gets you in the door with FHA, 620 opens conventional loans, and 740+ unlocks the best rates. The space between qualifying and getting a great rate is worth tens of thousands of dollars, so if you have a few months, focus on lowering your credit utilization, protecting your payment history, and leaving your accounts alone. Then get pre-approved and shop your rate.